James Town | About Ghana

An enclave almost entirely inhabited by fisher-folk, perhaps the most surprising aspect of James Town is its unpresupposing, village-like aspect. In general, maritime capitals usually have industrial installations corresponding to their importance.

Once again, Accra astonishes by its indifference to the sea; its port is wholly devoted to artisanal fishing, as the modest surrounding quarters – occupying the place of honour usually given to commerce and international hotels- amply testify.

The atmosphere is totally different – and all the more so during Homowo in neighbouring Ussher Town. As the fever of the celebration mounts with the thundering drums, enthusiastic crowed encircle groups of kaolin-painted traditional dancers.

Everyone here seems to know everyone else: joking and bantering, the onlookers alternate between following the intricate steps of the dancers and the antics of the local youngsters. There’s no reason for timidity here, and visitors should not hesitate asking for explanations as to the meaning of the celebrations taking place before them, explanations which will be offered with the greatest kindness on the part of the local population.

Outside the circle of the festivities, the crackle of fireworks and the excited cries of children announces the stirring arrival of the city’s chieftains, mounted upon canopy shaded thrones borne upon the shoulders of their retainers.

As firearms of all calibres and ages are emptied in a joyous salute, the odour of gunpowder mingles with that of the free-flowing local schnapps. The resulting scene is a rare vision of timeless, immemorial Africa, unchanged by modern life and contemporary influence.

2015 - Despite Group

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